I love the ocean. I love to surf. I love waves.
Getting back into surfing has been a challenge. More of a challenge than learning the first time, which was the most difficult thing I ever accomplished. It’s been frustrating and demoralizing at times to want to do it so badly and to just not be able to. I won’t give up. I can’t.
The good news is, I found something which gives me just as much, if not more, exhilaration and joy as riding waves did and that is swimming out amongst them and trying to take photos of waves breaking. It is frustrating as well, so many things to try and pay attention to, but challenging and exciting. And when you see a good shot back home afterwards on the computer, it’s a huge thrill. The coolest thing of all is seeing my house on the top of the point in the background behind perfect little tubes.
So here’s a little compilation of my best shots from that first day shooting some half decent waves from the water, a morning and a sunset swim on the beach below my house in Nova Scotia.
STOKED!
