Buenos Dias Jose

Most people are concerned about hurricanes. A hurricane watch or warning is typically cause for alarm, justifiably. They can, and often do, cause incredible devastation. It is a idea good to develop the habits of being prepared and having emergency supplies and plans in place. All coastal dwellers also learn to follow the weather reports and storm tracks closely. Very closely. And to be ready to act appropriately for whatever turns up. Continue reading

Surf to live. Live to surf.

Old man who can’t surf anymore has bleak, almost hopeless message about depression.

(the keyword is ‘almost’)

I’ve been battling severe depression all my life.

I don’t know how I’ve made it this far. I’m going to be 65 in a few weeks.

I’m currently so depressed I haven’t gotten out of the house in weeks or done any of the things I normally love to do this time of year. Continue reading

Wave Porn

I love the ocean. I love to surf. I love waves.

Getting back into surfing has been a challenge. More of a challenge than learning the first time, which was the most difficult thing I ever accomplished. It’s been frustrating and demoralizing at times to want to do it so badly and to just not be able to. I won’t give up. I can’t. Continue reading

Where’s Edouard?

Day Two of the search for Edouard. September 18 early morning.

It was so big on the satellite pictures. The track was just right. It was right in the window. The swell charts were perfect. The wind was perfect. The sun was out, the water was still warm…

Where are the freaking waves??? Making the rounds, checking the points…a few tantalizing teasers…but nope…he stood us up. Again.

Continue reading

Looking For Edouard

Hurricane Edouard is coming! Hurricane Edouard is coming!!

All week long the surf reports and weather sites shouted. Big surf! Great waves! All time! Whoo-hoo!!!

Surf forecasting, like weather forecasting, is a hit and miss affair, we all know that. But both have gotten remarkably more accurate in the past decade compared to say, 30 years ago. Still there is something in the surfer’s psyche that sends up the red flags when a coming swell is hyped so much. You get your stoke on…sure…but you never let go that feeling you’re going to get skunked or are being set up for disappointment.

One thing for sure though, driving around Nova Scotia in September checking out remote, pristine beaches on a crystal clear day is Never In Vain. Even if there is little sign of Edouard and his forecast surf. Continue reading

Endless

Endless Blessings. Endless Bliss.

It all began with a trip back east to Bethlehem to visit our grandparents one summer back in 1966. My Dad had been transferred by Bethlehem Steel out to St. Louis MO and we lived in a comfortable middle class town called Kirkwood. We pretty much hated it there, we called it Misery, rather than Missouri. So we leapt at the chance to go back to our beloved hometown.

We were even more thrilled when our grandparents asked us what we wanted to do. “Go down the Shore!!!” we screeched in unison. We’d always loved the beach and especially loved body surfing in the little rollers at Ocean City NJ and Wildwood and Atlantic City. It was something we discovered naturally and had been water babies from the get go. Continue reading

Charlie Don’t Surf

The day after the “Riders on the Storm” storm surf, the wind turned offshore and the swell was still holding. Sun was out and it was a glorious day. My back was in agony, knew I couldn’t go out, but I had to go down and take a look at the local point.

It was about as good as it gets. Still about head high on the best sets, but tide was too high so it mushed out after the first hollow peak and a quick tube section. The bigger ones reformed as it wrapped around into the cove. I’m sure it was fun. Continue reading

Riders on the Storm

Usually in Nova Scotia, the surfers, like me, hope a hurricane passes by, but not too close! That will kick up some excellent surf. You just have to time it so you hit it when the wind comes around offshore.

One night, in the cabin, in the middle of the night it seemed like a full on hurricane was hitting and would blow us off the ridge. Nothing had been forecast though. It was a storm that had come off the land and combined with various meteorological factors to turn into something close to that force though. Not a Nor’easter as it came from due West off the continental U.S. A complete surprise, interesting in this day of high technology weather forecasting. Continue reading

Gidget Goes To Malibu

One fine day I realized I hadn’t taken any pictures of the Malibu of Nova Scotia, aka Lawrencetown. The center of Novy surfing, it’s become quite a zoo in the past couple years, due largely, IMHO, to the promotion of the sport and lifestyle by certain retail giants looking to create new markets. Just a guess…I’m sure there are other factors. But on most summer days its packed with tourists, hodads, wannabes, groms, and kooks, much like the fabled Malibu after the movie Gidget came out. Continue reading