Charlie Don’t Surf

The day after the “Riders on the Storm” storm surf, the wind turned offshore and the swell was still holding. Sun was out and it was a glorious day. My back was in agony, knew I couldn’t go out, but I had to go down and take a look at the local point.

It was about as good as it gets. Still about head high on the best sets, but tide was too high so it mushed out after the first hollow peak and a quick tube section. The bigger ones reformed as it wrapped around into the cove. I’m sure it was fun.

I took a lot of live video, while talking to a nice lady who lived right there on the point. Turned out she was from New Jersey. Wish I’d got her number for surf checks, but she said stop in anytime I’m down there. She also said I was the only person she’d ever seen surf it. But did mention a couple guys had come down the night before and surfed way inside almost at the beach break where its protected from the wind. You can see the little perfect peelers in the Riders on the Storm video right at the end, I spotted them as I hobbled back to the car, my back in too much pain by then to go over and take more shots. Next time…